Saturday, August 28, 2010

Sandbarding, Stumping...and Soda

It´s been 10 days since we left the great union which has afforded me & Heidi the opportunity to embark on this adventure...and so far, so good. Although we miss our friends and family dearly, neither of us have suffered any horrible illnesses and we haven´t encountered any major problems.

As I write this, Heidi and I are in an internet cafe in Nazca, awaiting an 8pm departure to Cusco, the gateway to the famed Maschu Picchu (which is the most-visited spot in South America). Since the bus ride to Cusco is 15 hours we sprung for a fancy bus with Cruz Del Sur. The tickets are considerably more expensive than those we purchased for the shorter rides (on less comfortable buses), but this bus has fancy, fully-reclining seats, on-board meals and, most importantly, two bathrooms. I´m not sure we´ll have the opportunity, or budget, to spring for these buses often, but our first long distance ride calls for something special. And, since it´s an overnight bus getting some shut-eye is ever so important.

After Pisco we stopped in Huacachina, a little desert oasis which has been overrun by tourists in search of a little adrenaline rush via the dune buggy tours and sandboarding opportunities which abound in the area. Heidi and I were no different. A short taxi drive from the bustling city of Ica and we were checking into the Casa de Arena hostel, known for its late-night poolside parties. (We chose the joint because I told the taxi driver we needed something cheap and this is what he recommended.) We picked a room with a shared bathroom, which saved us about 7 bucks per night. It was spartan, but served it´s purpose as a place to lay your head for the night.

The first day we just hung out and relaxed, as Heidi wasn´t feeling her best. We grabbed a bite at an inexpensive restaurant along the lakeshore. Only one other table was occupied, and the Backstreet boys were coming from the speakers as a scraggly kitten rubbed our legs, begging for a little taste of our grub. After dinner we retired for the evening. Thankfully, there was no poolside party and we fell asleep pretty early, despite music blaring from a nearby nightclub.

The next day we had arranged to go out and try sandboarding. Basically, it´s something like snowboarding but in the desert. We were herded onto one of three dune buggies, strapped in and were off...but not before stopping to pay a "tourist tax" (above and beyond the fee of the tour) prior to buzzing off into the desert. I was in the front of our buggy, while Heidi was strapped in the back next to a couple of Aussies. Immediately, the driver was taking us up big dunes, down crazy drops and speeding across a span of desert at what seemed like 60+ mph! It was a ton of fun. I placed a bandana around my face after eating a little sand.

After about 15 minutes we stopped and got out to try sandboarding. The boards were waxed with candle wax and we strapped in. Some people chose to go down on their stomachs while I decided to try riding down on my feet. I made it a couple of feet before going down hard enough to elicit an empathic response from the onlookers. A few more tries, all with with the same result. Heidi went down on her tummy and seemed to really enjoy herself. When she took video of me I didn´t fall, but my board wasn´t waxed well enough so I went down the dune at about the speed molasses moves in mid-winter.


After some more zooming through the desert we stopped at some bigger slopes. I went down on my stomach the first time, intimidated by the size of the dune. It was fun, but once I got down near the footprints in the sand )at the bottom of the dune) it really hurt. On the last dune of the day I went down on my feet again, figuring it was the least painful of my options, even if I would be falling the entire way down. Surprisingly, I made it down in one piece, without falling! We hopped back in our buggies and headed back, but not before watching a beautiful sunset.



After leaving the desert oasis we came here to Nazca. Although we knew we weren´t going to spring for a private flight over the famed Nazca Lines it was a little closer to Cusco, and was certainly worth a stop. There are a couple of viewing points of some of the formations, so we opted for a guided tour instead. It was a fraction of the price of a flyover, and far less impressive too. Honestly, I was a little disappointed. It was interesting to learn about the lines, and the ancient peoples who created them, but we were only were able to see a couple of formations, after which we were taken to a homely museum built as an homage to the German woman who devoted her life to the study of, and fought to protect, the centuries-old lines.

And now, a few random bits:

Just because I complain about stuff doesn´t mean I´m not having an amazing experience. I could see how a stranger reading my blogs might think that I am an ungrateful person who does little more than complain about petty things which are, all in all, inconsequential. The fact is, I am loving every bit of this adventure and having an amazing time. All in all, the local people have been extremely friendly...and honest. I really am grateful for this opportunity and know how lucky I am, thanking God for this opportunity each and every day.

It´s definitely campaign season. You know how annoying the campaign ads are on TV back home? Well, rest assured it is far from unique to the US. Elections are this fall in Peru and it seems like every billboard, sign post and shanty home is covered with political advertisements. Entire buildings are painted for specific candidates and I wonder whether people are that devoted to their candidates, or if they´re being paid to decorate their homes and businesses in such a manner.

No Mountain Dew...but plenty of Inca Kola. I love my Mountain Dew and drink it nearly every day, while in the United States. I have only seen it once in Peru (and surprisingly did not buy any) so I have had to find a new vice. That is none other than Inca Kola. Until fairly recently this outsold even Coca-Cola in Peru. It is a yellow soda with a bubble-gum like flavor. I enjoy it thoroughly, as do most of the locals...or so it appears.

I am very excited about Machu Picchu, although it will be nearly a week before we get there. We´re going to spend a few days just getting acclimated to the elevation while in Cusco. (Sickness is not uncommon and typically treated here with a tea made from coca leaves.)

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